Chapter Ten - Cruising Season Part 2
November 2008
Hurricane Season is nearing its end and we are preparing for our second cruise of the Caribbean. DRUM got hauled out for two weeks to scrape and paint the bottom and replace two thru-hulls which had seized shut better than open. Back in the water, serious provisioning and getting DRUM ready for the next trip.
We have been a long time in Venezuela and it was a sad time saying goodbye to all our new friends. On November 1st we left Bahia Redonda in company with Childsplay and Vamoose to sail to Mochima Park; a 30 mile trip to a well known local resort. As always after a long down time things dont work and this time was no different. We started our generator after three and a half months nothing! My first thought was for our huge meat order in the freezer visions of me cooking tons of steaks and roasts! Luckily it was easily found by my hero - Roy. When the workers were in the engine room fixing the cooling system one of them had sat on the off switch accidentally. Easy fix.
The next time was when we got to the anchorage in Mochima, our windlass didnt work; if all else fails, look for a loose connection yup there it was - a dangling wire.
Had a great dinner ashore with Childsplay and Vamoose followed by a movie in the cockpit, gently rocking in this lovely still anchorage. And, as always, watching a lightning show in the distance while sitting under a clear evening sky surrounded by stars. At night, there is always lightning somewhere in Venezuela. And, for you Canadians reading this no bugs!!!
The next morning we were off again to meet up with Gypsy Blues in Medregal Village. Lots and lots of dolphins swam and played along side DRUM for most of the trip down the channel. Hot, clear, sunny skies the same formula every day flavoured with an occasional squall late in the afternoon.
We arrived late afternoon escorted by a squall with our decks washed and drinking glasses full. We take every opportunity to fill glasses of rain water because the watermaker water tastes like nothing its almost distilled.
Medregal Village is a great place a charming oasis with a bar, pool, pool table and dinner. A great steak and salad dinner for 25 BS (about $5.00) in company with old friends.
Next morning a crepe with vanilla sauce, topped with kiwi for breakfast on board Gypsy Blues thanks to Rene and Cheryl and then on to Muelle de Carioco to see the birds. Along with Sojourn and Gypsy Blues we travelled a short way to see Scarlett Ibis, Toucans, Parrots and the ever present Pelicans who get ready to roost just before sunset. Our three dinghies set out to find the elusive birds. Just before the river channel the trees were covered by bright red Scarlett Ibis but no Parrots. On to the river we were warned that there were Piranha and Constrictors in the area, so keep your feet out of the water. We slowly motored up the river in the quiet still evening and we were suddenly dive bombed by hundreds of fish eating bats swooping and skimming along the water.
The next day we motored to Laguna Grande man was it hot 36 degrees and not a breath of wind! We didnt even wear a hat and beads. We anchored in a great lagoon completely surrounded by rounded red hills and very sparse vegetation and sparkling clear water. Wait till you see the pictures. We all got in our dinghies to do some exploring and again just drifted along in the still warm evening talking for hours. No stress here folks.
The next day was busy. We said goodbye to Sojourn and travelled along with Gypsy Blues to Cumana to buy some diesel. We filled everything our bladder from the crossing and all available jugs. We bought 65 gallons and it cost us the exorbitant amount of $2.50 U.S. in total.
We then set to using some of the diesel by motoring 50 miles, all the way to Isla Coche, where we snuggled close to the three other boats in the anchorage. We are starting to get a little nervous about pirates in these waters.
A short sail the next morning brought us to Porlamar in Margarita; a large anchorage presently holding approx. 70 boats with lots of wonderful clear, clean turquoise water for swimming. There are great provisioning locations for wine, beer and liquor for really reasonable prices. A good quality wine costs about 30 BS which equals about $6.50 per bottle, depending on the exchange rate - presently 4.5.
Sad day! We heard this morning on the Coconut Telegraph that two cruising yachts that we had briefly met in Bahia Redonda had been boarded not 7 miles from the marina in Puerta La Cruz, an area not considered dangerous. The two couples endured an un-provoked attack in which one man from one yacht was killed instantly and the other was injured but was able to kill two of the three attackers. Everyone is in shock. While pirate attacks in the area are not rare unprovoked shootings are. This is so sad not only for the victims but also for the many wonderful Venezuelan people we met who should not bear the stigma of a corrupt and dangerous Venezuela created by a few criminals.
Psychologically, we are all snuggling a little closer in the anchorages and during crossings in this area.
Time is drawing near for the next trip. We are planning for a small convoy with Gypsy Blues, Zwit and Thora 2 to travel to Los Testigos and then on to Grenada to meet up again with a new and improved Allegro who has been painted, varnished, dusted and cleaned.
Cheers
Roy and Maggie
S/V Drum
www.royandmaggie.com